From Trikes To Bikes In Petchaburi: Asean Transportation

A topic like transportation could easily get lost in the nostalgia of bygone times and a yearning for the ways of a different age. So that's what I am going to do.

I'll start with this symbolic photograph as the old and the new line up against each other. There is only one possible winner.

This mural (above) is on a wall in the main market of Petchaburi in Thailand where I live. It shows a bridge over the adjacent Petchaburi river with the historic Khao Wang hill with its palace behind. The bridge is populated with bicycles and samlor's ("three wheel" tricycles used as taxis). I thought about recreating the same view photographically now but a new building blocks the view of the hill so it didn't seem worth it. The traffic on the bridge would be motorbikes and pickup trucks.

Perhaps amazingly the samlors have hung on and still ferry the elder generation around the market. The younger generation all use their own motorbikes. The samlor riders are all as old as their trikes and I suspect the tradition will fade away with them. And with them will die the personal touch of people who know all the routes, all the shops and almost all the people. I often see them taking a passenger somewhere then waiting for them to finish their errand before pedalling them on to the next stop. They are also trusted to transport people's goods around without the owner, like with these eggs (below).

An old photograph of unknown age on display in the market showing a samlor in a rainy town centre:

But something else less obvious has been lost from the town's transportation which is now only evident in the murals on display in the market area alongside the river. According to the artworks, the river used to be a major thoroughfare for a wide range of boats especially as part of the market. These images give the impression of a river busy with boat traffic.

But now there are none. I only recall ever seeing a single boat on this river and that was an oared long-boat with a crew of six or seven young men practicing for a race. I do not know why the switch to land-based transport was so complete but a river running through a Thai town without any boats on it looks a bit dead, particularly as there are still many steps down to water level.

However, in effect I am just a tourist with an unrealistic view of how I would like things to be. For the local population having the buying power to own the convenience of motorised transport is a great step forward. The loss of a convivial market atmosphere is a small price to pay for the practical benefits of modern transport.

Petchaburi belongs to motorcycles.

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NIce to see old traditions kept alive, lots of towns here in Cambodia still have "cyclos" as they're called here. I actually was a cycle rickshaw driver in Colorado for two years in my younger days, but carrying up to three and four people in a town with a slight slope destroyed my knees. I totally understand why these guys rarely take more than two folks around.

I'm old fashioned, even here in our village all the locals laugh at my family and I because we ride a Honda Cub 90 and 50, bikes that are considered too slow to climb the mountain pass we live on.

And I guess your passengers were larger than the average Cambodian! I am tempted to ask one of these guys to let me have a go pedaling - it's flat so I shouldn't embarrass myself too much.

Haha, yes, heavy indeed, and I averaged $10 a day averaging around 70-100 miles, worst business ever. I used to argue with rickshaw and tuk-tuk drivers when I first moved to Cambodia because they were carrying a lighter load than me, going a shorter distance, and also charging me 5 times more than I would've made in my own country. I am almost 100% sure they think I'm lying when I tell them I once did their job, but carried a 400% heavier load uphill for a 1/5th of the monthly income, haha.

The one rare upside is that when going slightly downhill the wind doesn't affect you because the momentum of all that weight keeps propelling you. Random factoid, once had a drunk passenger punch a guy on the sidewalk from my pedicab, talk about a legal nightmare.

Thanks for posting in the ASEAN Hive Community.

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