"Race across the world", is probably a well known TV programme in great Britain, airing on the Biased Broadcasting Corporation. The 4th or is it the 5th series has just ended five couples must independently find their way from japan to the Southern tip of India, with a limited budget, no tech assistance, but accompanied by two minders at all times. How convenient. The winners pick up £20k.
This years couples were a right load of wet wipes all with issues, where the fuck do they find these fools. Real people required please, not those who are permanently unhappy.
The only saving grace was the outstanding videography, with static, action and drone cameras in use and some brilliant editing.
Having myself travelled extensively across the sub-continent over the years, it was good to see many places I had walked, it prompted me to look back for these snaps.
So here it is throwback thursday, this most magical city was visited some 15 years or so ago. Ladies and gentlemen, boys and girls I present to you......
Varanasai
Standing on the banks of the Ganges River which is one of the most sacred rivers in Hinduism, the river, Mother Ganga is worshipped as a goddess by the devout believing it to possess the power to wash away sins and grant liberation from perpetual rebirth.
Forget the traveller and the tourist, millions of Hindus during their lifetime make pilgrimages to its banks, particularly to holy sites like Varanasi; to immerse themselves in the waters to wash away their sins purifying their soul. They also see it as a stairway to heaven for the deceased,by scattering the ashes of the departed onto her waters.
I recall arriving late afternoon, a dusty, hectic city, quite overwhelmed by the numbers of beggars sitting staring with empty vacant eyes, hands outstretched in anticipation of receiving whatever a generous person may give them. The closer you got to the riverbanks their numbers increased, advised not to give money to any of them as often they were part of begging gangs run by local gangsters and "hooligans."
An early evening tuk tuk ride to the Ghats, which we had to abandon and continue on foot due to the throngs of crowds heading the same way.
Destination:
The Dashashwamedh Ghat
The Dashashwamedh Ghat is the oldest ghat of Varanasi it is believed that Brahma created this ghat to welcome Shiva with a ritual sacrifice of ten horses.
Each evening a group of priests perform the "Agni Pooja" Hindu ritual as a dedication to Shiva, Ganga, Surya (the Sun), Agni (Fire), and well to cover all bases, the entire fucking universe.
As the ceremony progresses prayers are chanted, accompanied by the ringing of bells, the clashing of cymbals and the blowing of horns and conch shells, the air heavy with the sweet scent of burning incense
At the heart of the ritual are the ceremonial Aarti lamps which are swung with gay abandon an act to the dedications to said Lord Shiva, River Ganga, Surya (Sun), Agni (Fire) and the whole fucking universe.
I love getting up the crack of dawn, but she isn't always happy with the attention (boom boom, I'm here all week)
A visit back the the Ghats, clambering into a little wooden boat for "a river cruise" the term was very much poetic licence!
We were not alone, as we set off into the haze sitting heavy on Mother Ganga, soon the sun will rise and burn it off, who is complaining, it creates such ethereal views.
A truly fantastic sight to behold, it is a never ending conveyor belt, 24/7/365, queues of recently dead bodies (cremation must take place within 24hrs of death) are formed landside awaiting this Hindu honour.
Manikarnika Ghat, one of the most sacred Hindu cremation grounds located on the banks of River Ganges. In Hinduism, death is considered a gateway to another life, reincarnated based upon how well you misbehaved in this one. The great belief is that being cremated here breaks that cycle. Welcome to eternal blackness.
- Sadhus(holy men),pregnant women, children, lepers, and anyone who has died due to a cobra bite cannot be cremated here, as they are seen as a being spiritually pure and cleansed and the cycle is already broken.
To say that Varanasi is a Holy City, is a bit if an understatement, as well as the Ghats, the rituals, the cremations and the bathing, there are in addition an estimated 20,000, temples for those wishing to prey and make offerings.
