Hello everyone. I'd like to tell you about my visit to Gyumri, a city we explored during our trip through Armenia. After this journey, we flew from Yerevan to Istanbul by plane. In upcoming posts I'll share details of our trip to Istanbul.
My friends had recommended visiting Gyumri, saying it’s a beautiful, historic city full of interesting sights and attractions. That's why it became one of the places we wanted to see before leaving Armenia. We traveled from Yerevan to Gyumri by bus. The one-way ticket cost only 4 Euros and the ride took about two hours. Our hotel was located right in the city center; its name was Ethno Hotel. It was just a short walk from where we arrived and taxis here are incredibly cheap: only 200 drams from the bus station. This is definitely a big advantage compared to Yerevan, where taxis are significantly more expensive.
From the moment we entered the city, the first thing that delighted me was the tourist-friendly atmosphere. There are cafes, restaurants and shops lining the streets. If you step onto the main street, you’ll find the central square, which is completely pedestrianized. No motor vehicles allowed making it very pleasant and safe to walk around. In some cities, even so-called pedestrian areas sometimes allow bikes or scooters or even cars at times, which can be inconvenient. Alongside the cafes and restaurants, there are also hotels on the street, including the one where we stayed. While walking along the street, we passed the hotel without noticing it at first, but once we realized, we turned back. The sign was on the second floor. We went inside and finally settled into our room after a long journey left us feeling tired.
They checked us in quickly and got us settled in our room. Room price: 70 Euro/night (breakfast included). Inside, the decor was old-fashioned yet elegant and aesthetically pleasing. Air conditioning was a great bonus. The bathroom amenities were complete. There was even a golden-colored tap that looked funny and the mirror frame matched the style. These small details really impressed me. Toothbrushes, toothpaste, combs, slippers, hair dryers and even bathrobes were available, all branded as part of the Ethno Hotel experience, which added a nice touch. As soon as we walked in, we noticed the beauty inside: carpets, unique chandeliers, wardrobes... The walls seemed to have been preserved from history itself. They say the hotel is housed in a historic building and the view from the window overlooks the pedestrian street below. There were glasses, a water jug, tea and coffee supplies, all arranged with a very stylish design. I’ve never seen such beautifully crafted porcelain items in any other hotel. The balcony had a table and chairs, offering a scenic view over the pedestrian street, which is a major attraction for tourists. Of course, locals also frequent this area.
After resting and recovering from travel fatigue, we went outside again and returned to the city's main tourist street. First of all, I must say that the old-town vibe is tangible here. There are many popular spots, including various cafes and plenty of food and drink options. At night, street musicians gather here, creating a magical atmosphere enhanced by the street's excellent lighting. Now I understand why my friends recommended this place. It’s filled with artists, souvenir shops, tea houses, coffee bars, juice stands… everything is easily accessible. There are also many clothing stores and boutiques, making it a great destination for shopping enthusiasts.
Of course, there's also an unforgettable photo spot: a green-painted piano and a bicycle reminiscent of those found in Amsterdam. Flowers are naturally among my favorites. I always notice them. In the evenings, the street comes alive with street musicians, crowds and the general vibrancy of the city’s most lively district.
The restaurant where we had breakfast was called House. We could even see it from the window. Another detail that caught my attention was the abundance of beer-related advertisements. The reason? There’s a local brewery here. We tried it ourselves. It was soft and delicious. You can also join a tour of the brewery if interested. The architecture of the city is very impressive. One of the first things that caught our eye was a church built in the 10th century, which we later visited. But I had a question lingering in my mind: Why are there bird cages here with pigeons inside? I couldn’t figure out the reason behind this unusual sight.
We visited one of the two 10th-century churches: St. Gayane Church. People come here to pray and admire its beauty. To me, the atmosphere felt wonderful. We approached the fountain in the city square. It had clean, drinkable water. I was curious whether it tasted different from the water in Yerevan, so we did a taste test. Turns out, there wasn’t much difference between the two. Having free access to clean drinking water fountains everywhere in Armenia is a huge advantage.
We walked toward the main square. It was just a few minutes away on foot. This is the heart of Gyumri: Marzpetun Square. Here, horse carriages circle the plaza, offering rides. There are fountains, although they weren’t working when we visited. This square hosts concerts and festivals and offers various activities for children, like skating rinks, bumper cars and train rides. It’s a perfect destination for families. The city really exceeded our expectations. It was even better than we had imagined.
We experienced temperatures around 30 degrees Celsius, similar to Yerevan but it cooled down in the evening, making it perfect for an evening stroll. We then crossed to the second church on the other side of town. Its name was Amenaprkich, also built in the 10th century. However, it was destroyed in the 1988 earthquake and only received permission for reconstruction in 1995. Its exterior looks elegant and restored and the interior is likely just as beautiful.
Later we entered the second church and explored the interior. Compared to the first one, it appeared larger and more elaborately designed. Inside, there were icons, paintings and seating areas. Some parts still showed signs of ongoing restoration. From what we heard from locals, real estate prices have increased two to threefold over the past 2–3 years. I wonder whether renting in Gyumri is more affordable than in Yerevan, especially since Gyumri is the second-largest city in Armenia and its center seems quite developed.
We then moved to another street, which also had many cafes and restaurants. For example, there was a place called Hotdog Mania, a dream for hotdog lovers like myself. However since we had plans to go to a restaurant for dinner, we didn’t rush.
On this main square, there’s another pedestrian street: Abovyan Street. At its entrance stands a statue of Kirk Kerkorian, a famous Armenian millionaire who donated to the city’s reconstruction.
The street has a 19th-century architectural style, with buildings made of red tufa stone. There are cafés, ice cream parlors and art galleries. At the beginning of the street, there are four fountains shaped like teapots. The souvenir shops here are diverse, selling fridge magnets, bags and other items from small carts. The handmade products sold here appear authentic and of high quality. The variety of handcrafted souvenirs is very impressive. There are even camera bags for sale.
We saw a bench decorated with flowers in front of a nice café.It’s known as the Lovers Bench, where people write their names and attach padlocks. We had done something similar in another city before, but someone had taken ours. Here, you can buy a lock and key set for 5000 Dram.
We entered one of the shops to browse souvenirs. Inside, there were jewelry pieces, hoodies, plates, cups, musical instruments and even antique clocks. We tried a spirit here, an Armenian brandy from 1978. It was highly aromatic, almost chocolate-scented. A 0.5-liter bottle cost 250 Euros, a 45-year-old product with a strong yet impressively rich flavor.
Thus, we spent our day exploring the city. Eventually, we decided to return to Ethno Hotel for the night. Staying until late at night to enjoy the street musicians would have been lovely, but we were a bit tired. We had an early bus waiting for us in the morning to take us back to Yerevan...
